Do you guys remember when I built a Modern DIY Farmhouse Dining Table a while back and told you how it was built backwards and totally different from a normal dining table?
Well, now I’m going to show you how to build a “normal” dining table and it’ll all make more sense 🙂
Because I’m really not very good at making sense sometimes. I can’t help it. I have blonde hair. And I’m a girl. I think that it’s just inevitable.
So anyway, let me explain the difference between that modern dining table and what I call a normal dining table. The modern table top was flush with the legs and there wasn’t an overhang all the way around the table. I think that looks more modern because of the straight clean lines.
A normal table has a base that is a few inches narrower and shorter than the top and the top sets completely on the base. See what I mean?? Typically, these tables may have curvy style legs, making it more traditional, instead of modern. It’s all personal preference really, but I think these are a little easier to make.
And as always, I’ve got the step by step for you right here 🙂
But first, this build was sponsored by Timber Wolf Forest Products. They provided the legs for the build. Also, HomeRight provided the paint sprayer for this project. All opinions are my own and are uninfluenced. This post also contains affiliate links. See disclosure policy for details. If you purchase from these links, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps keep the content on this site free. Thank you for your support and for supporting the brands that help support this site.
Tools and Materials:
4 table legs (I used these from Timber Wolf Forest Products)
(3) 2x6x8 (you could use 2x4s instead if you wish. See Step 1)
Paint Sprayer (optional, but makes things way easier)
Pipe Clamps (optional)
Step 1: Prepare the Apron for the DIY Farmhouse Dining Table
Just to clarify the terminology here, the apron is the board(s) running under the table top connecting the legs together.
So, now that that is clear, determine the total length and width you want your table, the amount of overhang you want, and the thickness of your legs. In this case, the table would be 96″ long and 42″ wide. I wanted 1 1/2″ overhang on all sides (this will actually be 1 1/2″ off each LEG), and the legs are 5″ wide. So, my two long aprons should be 96″-3″ (which is 2x the overhang)-10″ (which is 2x the leg width)=83″ long. Cut two 2x6s this length.
Then, cut two short aprons to length using the same math. So 42″-3″ (2x overhang)-10″ (2x table leg thickness)=29″.
Because the legs I used are rather large and chunky, I wanted my apron to be larger than normal so it looked proportional. Typically, a 2×4 is fine for an apron, but I used 2x6s and cut them down to 4 1/2″ wide using a table saw. A standard 2×6 is 5 1/2″ wide. You could leave it at 5 1/2″, just keep in mind the chair height and make sure you will have enough leg room to slide under. If you wanted a less chunky leg, Timber Wolf has many other options on their website 🙂
This part is optional, but I like the little detail it adds. I used a table saw to cut a line down the trimmed down 2×6. I cut it about 1″ from the bottom. I adjusted my table saw blade about 1/4″ high and ran it through, then adjusted slightly and ran it through again so that the groove was cut about 2 blade widths thick (slightly under 1/4″). You could do this with a router instead if you wanted.
Now that you have your apron pieces ready, it’s on to step 2 🙂
Step 2: Assemble the DIY Farmhouse Dining Table Base Frame
Using a Kreg Jig for pocket holes, drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes into both ends of all four apron pieces. Make sure you drill so that the groove faces the outside.
Then, using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws, screw these apron pieces into the legs. Attach so that the apron is 1 1/2″ in from the outside corner of the leg. You should now have a base. (You will add a few more supports later.)
Step 3: Assemble the DIY Farmhouse Dining Table Top
You can see my post here on how to build a table top.
For this top, I squared off the edges of all my 2×12 boards on my table saw to make it seamless and smooth on the top. You can see how this is done in this post. Then I trimmed all the boards down to 10 1/2″ wide to make 42″ total width.
I always glue up my table tops, but if you wish, you could also attach then together using pocket holes and screws.
Once it’s assembled, trim down the edges so they are even and sand well. Again, you can follow my tutorial here for how to build table tops 🙂
Step 4: Finish the DIY Farmhouse Dining Table Pieces Separately
Because this is a “two toned” table and the bottom is painted and the top is stained, it’s easiest to finish them separately, then attach.
I stained the table top and the table base both with Minwax Early American. You don’t have to stain the base, but since I was going to distress it, I went ahead and stained it so it will show through the paint when it’s sanded down later.
After the stain was dry, I polyed the table top with Minwax Polycrylic.
Now is where things get fun. HomeRight sent this awesome paint sprayer and it’s a game changer. If you haven’t read all those blog posts I’ve written before and told you about how much I hated to paint furniture, I’ll just tell you again. I hate painting furniture. But mainly, I hate it because I’ve always done it with a brush. And nothing ruins a good build job like brush marks…ugh, right?
And know what else?? You know how many creases and crevices are in these fancy legs?? A lot! That’s no fun painting with a brush, either.
So I thought this would be the perfect project to try out my new sprayer on and, I’m telling you, friends…LIFE CHANGING. I mean, I’ll be honest, there is a learning curve to spray painting. There were some spots that I got a little too much paint and spots I didn’t quite get enough the first couple coats. But, even with my amateur skills, this still saved me hours of time and looked WAY better than if I had brush painted.
I highly recommend spray painting instead of brush painting. I’m hooked!
Once the paint is dry, you are ready for step 5 🙂 You can distress (if you choose) now or after step 5. I just used some 120 grit sand paper and hand sanded the edges, corners, and all over the legs to give it a little more visual interest with the distressing. Just keep sanding til you like it 🙂
Step 5: Add top supports and attach top
Cut two 2×4 pieces to fit between the two long aprons of the table. These should be about 33″ long. Drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes on both ends of each pieces and attach like shown using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Make sure they’re evenly spaced.
Then, drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes going up along the insides of the aprons. Do three or four on the short sides and one between each support on the long ones.
Place the top on the base and make sure it’s centered. Measure for equal overhangs (1 1/2″) on all corners. Use 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach the base to the top through the pocket holes you just drilled along the apron. Also, use a few screws through the 2×4 supports in the middle, too.
Now, look at you! You just built a table. That wasn’t so hard was it??
Don’t you guys love these fancy legs?? They are SO easy to work with and look so nice with that distressing. Perfect farmhouse style.
So now I’m curious, which style table do you like better? The modern, straight line table, or the traditional style table?? Let me know in the comments below.
If you are looking for a nice DIY farmhouse dining table bench to match this style table, check out this one I made recently.
I would love it if you’d pin this for later 🙂
Until next time, happy building!! 🙂