A: Everyone will have a different opinion on this, and it really depends on budget, availability and what type of projects you’re wanting to make.
That said, these are the 5 tools I recommend starting with and why.
A: I know getting started in woodworking can be overwhelming! My goal to make it as approachable as possible. My website is full of resources and tips to help you get started!
First, check out these two posts to help you figure out what tools you need to get started:
5 Tools to Get Started Woodworking
Must Have Tools for Cabinet and Furniture Building
Next, it’s important to understand lumber sizing. Did you know a 2×4 isn’t actually 2″ x 4″? Learn about nominal vs actual lumber dimensions here.
Now that you understand how lumber sizing works, you should feel a little more confident shopping for it. But, the lumber aisle can still be pretty confusing, so let’s break down how to shop for and buy lumber for your DIY projects.
Once you’re ready to get building, I highly recommend trying something small and simple first to get a feel for your tools and how to use them. I have a list of easy DIYs I recommend for beginners here.
As far as learning how to use your tools, every brand and model will vary a bit. So I encourage you to thoroughly read your tool manuals for specific and detailed instructions for using them. I know no one wants to read the manual, but they are actually full of useful information and tips.
You can check out helpful articles including how to sand wood, how to read a tape measure, and how to choose the best screws for your project PLUS more on my Getting Started Page.
A: With lumber sizing, there are nominal dimensions and actual dimensions. For example, 2×4 is a nominal dimension. The actual size of a 2×4 is 1 ½″ x 3 ½″.
Unless the numbers have a unit label, they are assumed nominal dimensions. So since 2×4 doesn’t include units, it’s assumed a nominal dimension. If it was written as 2″ x 4″, those would be the actual dimensions.
Learn more about understanding lumber sizing here.
A: I live in a very rural area and the options for lumber are limited. That said, I buy pretty much all of my lumber (both plywood and solid boards) at big box stores (Home Depot, Menards, Lowe’s).
You CAN find good lumber at big box stores IF you take your time to select your pieces.
Learn how to select and buy lumber for your DIY projects here.
There is a local saw mill about an hour from here that can supply limited amounts of solid hardwood, but you have to order exactly what you need well in advanced, so it’s a pain. And it’s VERY expensive, so I’ve only used them to buy the lumber for a couple table tops.
A: I recommend using cabinet grade hardwood plywood for DIY furniture projects. In my area, maple, birch, and red oak are common options. I opt for birch plywood most often, but do use maple and oak some, too.
Sanded pine plywood is a more budget friendly option, but I typically only use it for shop projects. It’s not as nice as hardwood options, especially if staining.
Learn more about how to choose the correct plywood for your project here.
A: I cut my plywood sheets using a circular saw and a couple of cutting guides. You can learn more about how I cut plywood in this article.
A: Lumber and material costs vary GREATLY by location and change daily. What cost $100 to build where I live last year, may cost $300 to build where you live this year. Or, it may cost $50.
That said, I include the tools and materials list for each project I share in the blog post, YouTube video, and the product page so that you can check your current local prices to determine an accurate estimate.
A: I don’t time my projects because I’m not trying to rush them and also because filming them makes everything take ten times as long and I’m usually working on multiple projects at once.
I know you want to know what to expect (timeline-wise) before tackling a new project. I totally get that! But, truthfully, it’s impossible for me to tell you how long it will take to build something because there are just so many variables. What may take one person a day to build may take another person two months.
A: If you’re having trouble finding your plan, check your email inbox. When you purchase a plan, you will receive an order confirmation email and a separate email with the subject line “Your downloads are ready.” The email with subject line “Your downloads are ready” will contain a link and instructions for accessing your download.
If you have additional questions about a plan, please email [email protected].
A: As stated on the product pages, plan dimensions are available in inches, not metric.
Every country has different standard lumber sizes available so even if I converted them, they wouldn’t likely match what’s available in your country. So you’d have to convert them to different sizes and modify depending on what’s available in your location.
I provide the cut and material list in detail so that, if needed, you can convert them and find the material in your location that most closely matches these dimensions.
Learn more about understanding lumber sizing here.
A: I don’t have a “favorite” brand of slides or hinges. I have used a TON of different brands and haven’t found any that were significantly better or worse than others.
I buy them in bulk on Amazon (much cheaper than anywhere else I’ve found them) and I typically buy the ones that are the cheapest and/or can get here the quickest. I personally would NOT splurge for expensive slides or hinges…the prices can be crazy and they’re pretty much all the same. I’ve used ProMark, Liberty, Sinkgo, Gobrico, Berta, Tobinice, and others and I’d recommend any of those.
A: Plans do not include modifications or customizations. I can share a few tips or things to consider if you’d like to reach out via email ([email protected]) and explain what modifications you’re thinking about. But at this time, I don’t have the capacity to create or modify custom building plans.
A: I actually don’t use software to design my projects. I design using pencil and paper. I like to sketch out my idea on paper, decide on the size I want it to be, then work backwards to determine what size each piece should be.
I just find pencil and paper to be easier and much quicker than drawing in software (just my personal preference). So I only draw my ideas in software AFTER I’ve built them so that I can create diagrams for the plans.
That said, I use Sketchup to create my diagrams and I manually lay out my plywood and board cuts (again, on pencil and paper). There are some programs out there that will automatically lay out your cuts, but I have found they often don’t consider grain direction or ease of cut. So if using automated programs, don’t just follow them blindly.
A: You can browse 100+ printable building plans in the shop here. Use the search bar at the top right (on desktop) or from the drop down menu at the top left to search for what you’re looking for.
If you don’t see it there, you can also use the search bar below to search the website. Some projects have tutorials here on the blog, but don’t include printable plans.
A: There are four MAIN types of cabinet door hinges and you select them based on the type of door you’re using (inset or overlay) and based on the type of cabinet they’re going on (frameless or face frame).
Learn how to choose the right hinge for your project here.
A: We offer bed frame plans in twin, full, queen, and king sizes. A regular king size mattress is 76” wide x 80” long. A California king mattress is 72” wide x 84” long.
So in order to modify a king to a cal king, you’d need to subtract 4” from all horizontal (left to right) pieces and make all front to back (headboard to footboard) pieces 4” longer. Essentially, you’re making the side rails longer and the head/footboard and slats shorter to accommodate the change in mattress size.
The inside opening where the mattress goes for the California king should be slightly over 72”x84” (I always like to build mine a little oversized to allow room to tuck in bedding.)