This post is brought to you by my own personal cheapness and laziness.
Yep, you read that correctly. I am confessing to you right now that I am cheap and lazy. Need an explanation? Read on : )
So, if you’ve been following along for a little bit, you know that we are remodeling our bathroom. Well, this bathroom needed a big new mirror because the old one was TINY. But…two things caused me some issues…Dilemma #1: It needs a frame…or not…but it needs SOMETHING…or not… Dilemma #2: I’m obviously VERY indecisive.
Originally, the mirror was going to be framed. I wanted a big round wood framed mirror. So I made a frame from some 1x10s that I glued together and cut out with a router.
The problem was that I cut it too thin. I didn’t want a big bulky mirror frame (I was thinking minimalist style), but I made the frame only 3/4″ thick. It was WAY too flimsy.
So anyway, this thing sat (and is still sitting) in my shop for several weeks while I thought about what to do with it because I was too lazy to do the whole thing over and make it thicker. Side note: I’m really not lazy…I just hate redoing things. But I really am cheap because honestly, I just didn’t want to have to go buy more 1x10s. #truth
SO, I did what all normal people do when they are trying to find
ideas to copy inspiration. I got on Pinterest. And what did I find but this. THIS. IS. IT. Not only is it amazingly out of the ordinary (which is totally my style), but it’s the easiest thing to make that I’ve ever seen in my life! And I won’t have to buy any lumber because I’ve already got a 2×4 in the shop for the shelf! So let me show you how I made it 🙂
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So here’s what I needed:
36″ diameter mirror (1/8″ thick)
Table Saw (or router)
So, I called up my local glass shop and ordered a 36″ diameter mirror 1/8″ thick. If you’re more of an online shopper, here is one on Amazon, but it’s 1/4″ thick. If you go with 1/4″ thick instead of 1/8″, you’ll just have to make your slit a little wider. No big deal. More details on that in a minute.
When I got the mirror, I used a tape measure to eyeball the width across the mirror at about where I wanted the shelf to hit it. The width of the mirror at the point I wanted it to hit was about 28″ wide. That left a few inches hanging below the shelf.
In my bathroom, I marked the studs in the wall along where I wanted the shelf to sit. Then I measured the length my shelf needed to be in order to hit at least three studs (remember you can’t count the studs right behind where the mirror will be). I used a 2×4 for my shelf. I cut it this length. Mine ended up being around 54″ long. I also offset my shelf so the mirror isn’t in the center. This is just personal preference, not necessary.
Once I had the shelf (also known as a 2×4) cut to 54″, I held it against the wall where I wanted to attach it. I made sure to line it up with the studs that I marked earlier.
Then, I marked on the bottom of the board where the studs are and where the center of the mirror will be.
Then I took the board down and used a tape measure to mark where the mirror will sit on the board. Remember, my mirror was 28″ wide where I wanted it to sit on the shelf. So, I centered 14″ on my tape measure with the mark for the center of the mirror and drew a line at 0 and 28″.
I flipped the board back over and marked the same lines on the top side. Then I cut the slit using the table saw. (You could use a router for this if you don’t have/want to use a table saw.) I first set my rip fence about 3″ from the blade.
SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY, I lowered the 2×4 board onto the blade (top side up) between the two lines that I just drew. I ran the board through until the blade had cut all the way between the two lines. Then I adjusted my rip fence 1/16″ closer to the blade and did the same thing again. Then I had a slit in my 2×4 a little over 1/8″ thick all the way between the two lines. If you use a thicker mirror, just keep adjusting the fence and cutting until your slit is wide enough to accommodate your mirror.
Then I drilled 1 1/2″ pocket holes using my Kreg Jig on the lines that I marked where the studs were. I made sure the holes were facing the BACK side of the board so I can screw into the wall.
Here is where you should sand and stain/paint your board. But, of course, I am too impatient and I hung it first and stained it later. To hang the board, use 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and screw the board into the studs, making sure it is level.
I wiggled the shelf a little to make sure it wasn’t moving any. If it is, you probably missed a stud (or two or three) and you’ll need to find them again and line your pocket holes with them. Luckily mine hit the studs and was very secure to the wall. I removed it later and stained it with Minwax Provincial, but then I simply lowered the mirror into the slot on the board (CAREFULLY).
And that’s it! If the mirror is leaning forward or backward, you may need to get a clip to hold it in place. Too much pressure on the glass (if it is leaning) can cause it to break. Mine set pretty good and was perfectly veritical, so I didn’t secure it any other way. Because I’m so indecisive, I wanted to be able to remove it and do something different in the future if I chose, so I didn’t want to glue it to the wall or anything. This floating shelf idea was genius!
Now, please enjoy the bazillion pictures I took of it because I love it so. Also, here is your sneak peek at our newly remodeled bathroom.
Now, you can’t just take pictures of a mirror without having an obligatory mirror selfie in there somewhere, right?
And you can’t ever just take ONE selfie…
I may have gotten out of control…
Okay, okay, back to pictures of the mirror…without me in them…
So, tell me what you think? Totally better than trying to make another frame, right? And totally easier…and cheaper. SOOO, sometimes being cheap and lazy pays off : )
If you like this project as much as I do, don’t forget to pin for later!
Stay tuned for several more projects coming up shortly! Until then, happy building!