Once upon a time I, alongside a VERY reluctant husband, remodeled a bathroom. And it was a nightmare. After the bathroom was done and the new bedroom floor was laid, I swore to Danny that I wouldnβt even THINK about another remodel βanytime soon.β
Oh memories, such a fickle thing. How quickly I forget all those late nights covered in crawl space dirt, exhausted and sweaty, and hating myself for ever starting this thing to begin with and turned my thoughts to how much βfunβ it would be to remodel our guest bathroom. Someone PLEASE define βsoonβ and βfun.β Apparently I canβt figure it out.
Within three months of swearing off remodels, Iβm back at it, already planning the next oneβstarting with a new DIY bathroom vanity. The actual remodel will probably be in a few more months (Danny takes some time to convince), but Iβve already got the idea in my head. We are replacing the double vanity cabinet here with two smaller single vanities.
Iβve only made one so far. I wanted to make sure I liked it before I made the other one. Good newsβ¦I do π So the other one will be coming soon. But Iβve got the whole how-to for you below!
A huge thank you to Osborne Wood Products for providing the vanity legs for this project and to D. Lawless Hardware for providing the ring pulls. All opinions are my own. This post also contains affiliate links for your convenience. Please see disclosure policy for more information. Thank you for supporting this site and the brands that support this site!
Materials needed :
4 vanity legs (Osborne Wood Part #5050)
ΒΎβ plywood (1 sheet)
ΒΌβ plywood (quarter sheet is plenty)
(2) 2x2x8
(2) 1x2x8
Cove molding (optional)
(2) 2x8x8 (for the top)
2 sets of hinges
Wood Putty
Sandpaper/sander
Tools needed:
Circular Saw (or table saw to cut down plywood)
Kreg Rip Cut (optional, but helpful if using circular saw to cut plywood)
Miter or chop saw
Nail gun (if using cove molding)
Measuring tape
Step 1: Build the vanity side panels
Okay, first, let me explain something. Used to, standard height on vanities was 30β tall. Itβs become standard now to do 36β tall (have you guys used both? 36β tall is SOOOOOO much nicer because you donβt have to bend over so far to wash your face, which is nice on the old back).
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These vanity legs come 34 Β½β long to accommodate a 1 Β½β thick countertop to make it a total of 36β tall. HOWEVER, I purchased an above mount sink that is 5 Β½β tall. So, in order for the top of my sink to be 36β off the ground, I had to make my vanity 30 Β½β tall. Are we all on the same page? If you are using an undermount sink or a drop in, you donβt have to cut the legs. And your measurements will be a little different as far as the height goes.
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Okay, so now that Iβve explained that, first I cut my vanity legs to be 29β tall. Iβm going to be honest. These legs are so smooth and pretty (unlike my ownβ¦HA!), it kind of hurt my soul a little to have to cut them. But, you gotta do what you gotta do.
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Then, I cut two pieces of 2×2 at 13β long and drilled 1 Β½β pocket holes in both ends. I attached the 2x2s to the top between two legs using 2 Β½β pocket hole screws making sure the outside of the 2×2 was flush with the outside of the legs. See image below.
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I used my Kreg Rip cut to cut my plywood down to a 13β wide strip. Once I had my 13β strip, I cut two pieces 18β long and drilled pocket holes along the sides with my Kreg Jig. I slid these pieces in between the vanity legs and attached to the 2×2 and the legs using 1 ΒΌβ pocket hole screws. See image below. Make sure the inside of the plywood is flush with the inside of the 2×2.
Then I attached another 2×2 to the bottom using 1 Β½β pocket holes and 2 Β½β pocket hole screws. I screwed the plywood into this at the bottom as well. That makes two panels that look like the image below.
Step 2: Attach the vanity sides together
I made my vanity 33β wide overall. Subtract 1β on each side for the top overhang and 6 inches (3β per leg) for the legs, and that gives 25β. If you want your vanity to be wider, just adjust this measurement.
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I cut two 2x2s at 25β long and drilled 1 Β½β pocket hole screws in each end and used 2 Β½β pocket hole screws to attach the side panels at the TOP OF THE FRONT SIDE as shown below and at the bottom as shown in the next picture.
Then I used a piece of scrap plywood (but you can use a 1×2) to attach across the top of the back side using pocket holes and screws. (When installing the vanity, this will be the piece you screw to the wall.) Notice the bottom front side 2×2 in the image below.
Step 3: Add the drawer
I forgot to take a picture of part of this, but you can see most of it on the image below. I cut two pieces of 1×2 at 13β and screwed them into each side panel between the vanity legs using pocket holes and screws.
This is so you can attach the drawer slide as seen above. I attached the drawer slide to this 1×2 making sure to leave space in the front for the depth of the drawer front (which is about 1 Β½β)
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You can see my post here on how to make drawers. You can make them lots of different ways, but your overall size of the drawer (without the front) should be 16β deep and 24β wide. I used 1x4s for the sides of the drawer, but 3 Β½β strips of plywood would work just fine, too.
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Once the drawer was made, I attached it to the slides.
Step 4: Add the shelf
I made my drawer front 5 ΒΌβ tall (more on that in a second). So, I cut a 1×2 at 25β and drilled pocket holes in each end and attached it into the legs as shown below. I measured and made sure the distance between the top of the 2×2 and the bottom of the 1×2 was 5 Β½β to allow room for the drawer front. Sorry, I have the top gluing up in the picture…that’s actually step 6.
I cut two more 1x2s at about 16β and screwed them into the legs as shown below so that the top was flush with the bottom of the 1×2 on the front.
Then, I cut a piece of ΒΎβ plywood at 17 Β½β wide and 28β wide. I cut notches in each corner like the picture below.
Then I attempted to put the shelf in and there was NO WAY I could get it to go in as one piece. So I ripped it in half and put it in as two pieces.
Hereβs why I did this: I have long hair. Long hair and P-traps donβt get along. Although I wonβt be using this guest bathroom as my main bathroom, inevitably the P-trap will eventually get clogged and need to be cleaned (the fact I wash my paint brushes in the guest bathroom sinks probably wonβt help the matterβ¦). I want to be able to remove this shelf when cleaning the P-trap so that 1. It doesnβt get covered in nasty P-trap grime on accident and 2. So thereβs more room to work on it in here when the time comes.
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If you are totally okay with not removing the shelf, you could do this step BEFORE adding the drawer and screw it all in as one piece that canβt be removed. Up to you.
Step 5: Add drawer front and doors and trim
I already said that my drawer front was 5 ΒΌβ tall. I cut it from the leftover ΒΎ″ plywood and made it ΒΌβ shorter width wise than the drawer opening (24 ΒΎβ) and added cove molding around the edges.
I also cut two doors from the ΒΎ″ plywood and nailed cove molding to them, too (my joints look bad below…they aren’t nailed in yet). The size of the doors will depend on the type of hinge you decide to use. My doors ended up about 11 Β½β tall and 12 ΒΌβ wide.
Then I nailed cove around the side panels for a little extra detail
Putty the cracks and nail holes. Once the putty dries, sand everything well. Donβt attach the drawer front or doors yetβ¦itβs easier to paint them first.
Step 6: Make the top
You can see how I make table tops in this post, but I made my top 33β wide and about 22β deep. I will likely trim the top down to 20-21β once the vanity is installed. Iβm not sure how far from the wall the top of the vanity will be when itβs installed (because of baseboards and the fact that walls are NEVER perfect), so Iβm waiting to trim it down until I know how far off the back it will hang. I want only 1β overhang in the front. Sorry, thatβs a lot of extra information. But, itβs free so there you go.
I drilled pocket holes along the sides and back to attach the top later.
Step 7: Finish
I stained the top with Minwax Puritan Pine and finished it with Minwax Polycrylic. Since this will be in the bathroom, I plan to add SEVERAL coats before itβs actually installed.
I primed and painted the vanity in SW Naval (Iβm using the same color scheme as my office). Once the paint was dry, I attached the drawer front by screwing it in from the inside of the drawer and attached the doors using small brass hinges. The sink isnβt installed yet, but I set it on top to get the idea. Once itβs ready, we will drill the hole in the top for the drain.
Then I added these brass ring pulls from D. Lawless Hardware. Arenβt they gorgeous?! I think they really add so much character to the vanity. Plus Iβm a sucker for brass and navy π
I plan to paint the bathroom the same color as my office (SW Eider White), so I took it in here to take some pictures to see what it would look like with that wall color. I love it!! This sink is gorgeous, too, and I cannot wait to find the perfect faucet to pair it with.
How about those legs and pulls? #hearteyes
I cannot wait to get the other one made and get these babies installed in the new bathroom! I’m loving this design and color. What do you guys think?? Let me know in the comments! If you love it too, don’t forget to pin for later π
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Until next time, happy building!! π
Kelly
Could you share the hinges that you used for this project? We have the piece built but canβt figure out how you attached the hinge. Thanks!
Shara, Woodshop Diaries
I used small butt hinges. They look like these from Amazon, but they are cheaper to buy them at your local Lowes or Home Depot: http://amzn.to/2rSkEJy. You just attach them to the sides of the cabinet, then screw them into the doors. With the Cove molding on the doors, you may need to drill the screws in at a slight angle so that the screws dont go all the way through the molding. In order to attach the door flush, the hinge will actually attach to the molding, not to the plywood door if that makes sense.
Cindy
Beautiful work! I have a question: how do the feet work with baseboard? is there enough taper that they clear it, or did you have to cut the baseboard?
Shara, Woodshop Diaries
Hi Cindy, I actually haven’t gotten to install mine yet–it’s a long story. But I don’t think there is enough taper on the legs to clear the baseboard (it will depend on the kind of baseboard you have, though). What I had planned to do was butt up the legs to the baseboard, then position the top so that it stuck out the back a little and touched the wall. That way there isn’t a gap between the wall and the countertop π
JoAnn @ SweetPepperRose
Hi, LOVE the vanity! I just got a Kreg Jig pocket hole system for Christmas and am learning to use it, and now I want, no NEED, that Kreg Rip saw guide, since I am deathly afraid of my hubby’s table saw and hand saw. I think I could handle it with that attachment. Anyway, I’ll be scrolling thru your site viewing your projects. I need two nightstands and your vanity seems to be versatile enough, with different feet and knobs , to work with my Shaker style canopy bed. Thanks for all the photos! I’m a very visual learner.
Shara, Woodshop Diaries
Thanks so much!! So glad you enjoyed the vanity project. It would definitely work well as a nightstand or end table, too. And yes, the rip cut helps me out so much! It’s difficult for me to handle a large sheet of plywood by myself and the rip cut helps me cut it down to manageable sizes to work with. Of course, you could use a straight edge as a “fence,” but I don’t have an 8ft long straight edge lying around, so the rip cut is super handy.
Tom Clarke
Shara, I loved the use of the Osborne legs. There are some things us amateur DIY’ers can’t do. I do have a suggestion – since I can’t remember a project you have done without a Kreg pocket hole jig and screws, I believe you need to be an official paid spokesperson for them. You forced me to buy one. π
Shara, Woodshop Diaries
HAHA welcome to the pocket hole club! I don’t get paid to be their spokesperson, but I do really like using their stuff…it just makes things so easy! You’ll get addicted too now that you have one π
kristin howard
Shara: Out of the park again,my friend!
Shara, Woodshop Diaries
Thanks so much!! π